Valve Adjustment - Volvo TAMD41P

 


I want to preface this post with this. I am not a trained mechanic, I just like learning and doing as much to my boat myself as I can. With that said, I take no responsibility for any results positive or negative if these directions are followed. This is for informational purposes only. If you have any comments about the procedure and how it can be improved, I would love to hear them.

My Cheat Sheet

My Volvo TAMD41P 200 hp engine now has 3120 hours on it.  Valve adjustment should be done every 1000 to 3000 hours. I have no idea when mine was done last as there were no maintenance records.  It was time.

Basic Tools for Valve Adjustment

To start with here is a basic list of tools you will need.
  • 21 mm Socket & Ratchet - Rotating Engine
  • 10 mm Socket & Ratchet - Valve Cover Nuts
  • 10 mm Wrench - Valve Cover Nuts
  • 1/2" Wrench - Valve Adjustment Lock Nut
  • Flathead Screwdriver - Valve Adjustment
  • 0.40 mm Feeler Gauge - Valve Gap
The Volvo "Workshop Manual / Engine Body" page 57 describes how to perform the adjustment.
I have an instruction sheet I made up with step-by-step and a diagram that I clipped from the manual. 
I did the valve adjustment a little different than described in the Manual but it was much easier.

Valve Adjustment

With the 10 mm wrenches I removed the valve covers and placed the covers and nuts aside. I was nervous that I'd drop something in so as I moved across the top of the engine I placed a shop towel over the openings.
 



The 3rd valve cover's front starboard side nut was under the vent tube for the crankcase ventilation system. Not sure if that system is installed on all TAMD41's or not.  After getting the 3rd cover off I noticed the gasket was slightly damaged. 





Each of the 6 cylinders has 2 valves, 1 Exhaust & 1 Intake.


As I said, I did the adjustment a little different than the manual describes but it was much easier.
With the covers off I then rotated the engine "clockwise" with the 21 mm Socket (manual says 24 mm) & a large breaker style handle on the dampening wheel on the front of the engine in order to locate Top Dead Center (TDC) for cylinder #1. Once I had done that I marked the top of the wheel to make the next rotation easier to see coming up to TDC #6.



Step 1.  While turning, watching 6 - When #6 Exhaust closes and #6 Intake just starts to open (valve overlap) you are at #1 TDC.

Adjust Intake - #1  #2  #4  & Exhaust #1  #3  #5


Step 2.  Set TDC #6 - rotate the engine 360 degrees.
Watching #1, when the exhaust #1 totally closes and #1 Intake just starts to open.

Adjust Intake - #3  #5  #6  &  Exhaust #2  #4  #6

To make the adjustments. First slide the 0.40 mm feeler gauge under the rocker arm to be adjusted. If adjustment is needed, loosen the 1/2" locknut & use a flathead screwdriver to tighten or loosen the arm. While you are doing this, leave the feeler gauge in place. Tighten the locknut and recheck the feeler gauge. The gauge should slide but not be too hard to put in or pull out.

With all the adjustments checked and made, I wiped the mating surfaces down and placed the valve covers back on. On the 3rd cover I used a little gasket seal at the damaged gasket instead of replacing it. Part# 838654 at $36.00 each, yikes!

I started the engine, checked for oil leaks. She fired right up and sounded great.

Most all of my gaps were fine. A couple were a tad loose and a couple a little tight.  The whole operation is pretty simple and quick but since I had never done it before it took me awhile as I checked and double checked TDC & adjustments.  I feel that this is a maintenance project that virtually anyone could do and it would seem like a waste of money to pay a mechanic for this. It also gave me a better working knowledge of my 4 stroke diesel engine.





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