Prop Walk

 

    In changing out the dripless seal I also turned my attention to the prop.  

    After the shaft removal, I pulled the prop off.  I have a large prop puller I purchased years ago when I owned my larger twin screw boat.  This tool comes in handy, especially when you have "whacked" as many rocks as I have.  With unprotected props in an area of a lot of shallow water like we have here in Crystal River, it happens. I think a puller is by far the easiest way to get a prop off without beating the crap out of it (which again I would not recommend but I did underwater the first time I "dinged" them). 

     My prop puller is for a larger diameter shaft & larger props so I had to use my pipe wrenches as a spacer.  If you are removing the prop while the shaft is still in the boat, after the cotter pin is removed, just back the nuts off & remove only the outer nut but DO NOT remove the inner nut.  I was on the ground so I took both nuts off.  The C Clamp shaped puller has fine threads and applies a lot of pressure to the back of the prop. When it starts to get tough, you do need to take a hammer and whack the handle in the clockwise direction you were turning.  Just when you think it isn't coming off..."BING" it jumps back off the shaft. That is the reason NOT to remove the nut.  I have done this under water & the last thing you want is that big prop jumping off and landing on you, this could lead to a bad scenario. When that thing pops it makes me jump every time.

    With the prop off I took it to Homosassa Prop. They have been in our area forever and now the son Mike is doing the work. We are fortunate to have such a great company in our area.  Again, we have lots of shallow water & unforgiving rocks so Mike has no shortage of work.   

    The prop had a couple of slightly bent tips from a previous (before me) strike of some sort.  I noticed a little vibration early on which I attributed to the bearing, alignment or the prop.  Balancing a prop the "old fashion" way is something this guy learned from his dad.  They have a serious collection of dies they use to hammer the prop back to true. It is I'm sure an art more than a skill but the results are good and he has a good eye.  

    Once the prop was trued up, they sand blasted it & re-checked it.  I showed up a little early & Mike informed he he was running behind & that he needed 1 hour.  I had no choice but to go down to The Shed on the Homosassa and cool off with an IPA (OK 2).  Mike called & I picked up the prop & took it to my shop, cleaned it with some denatured alcohol & coated it with some Pettit #1792 Zinc spray coating.  I have had good luck with this product.  Our waters here are brackish and although we get some fouling, it is not as severe as the more tropical southern waters of South Florida & the Bahamas.


    I put 4 coats of the Zinc spray on the prop and it was ready for re-installation on Pau Hana.  I am not saying this is the best solution, I just know that it has worked well for me in my waters.  I dive on my boat once a month during the warmer months to check for growth & knock off any barnacles and crud.


   I greased the taper & keyway, placed the small nut on first, tightened it up & using some 5200 put the larger nut on and torqued it as well, placed on a new cotter pin!




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